Rossi Rifleman

Few things I've learned and few things I need advice on.
Started with twenty rounds.
Flared the brass . This took 5 (spare) pieces of brass before I figured out what not to do.
How deep is the flare supposed to be?
Am I correct in saying - just deep enough to lightly insert the base of the bullet into the brass.



Used 11.6 Grains of H110. For a total of 10 rounds.
Used 12.9 Grains of H110 . For a total of 10 rounds.
Double checked the accuracy of my digital scale multiple times and checked powder charge twice as a precaution.

When seating the bullet what matters most the maximum or minimum COAL. Every round was just under max published COAL

Max published COAL was 1.59 respectively.
Every loaded round was ranging between 1.55 and 1.587 on the high end.
Any tips for getting these dimensions closer together?
Each round cycled well through my Rossi and fit well in my SP101.

Being as this is my first time you loading, having done all the safety checks I could. What would you recommend I test these rounds through...Revolver or Rossi 92.
What would be the safest bet. Both guns are very strongly built.
I am confident I did everything right. But that needs to be confirmed through firing?

Try in both weapons. 5 in the rifle and 5 in the revolver. Sounds like you have done every thing right.
I use cast bullets in my rossi 92.. good luck,post your results.. johnny

Jacketed bullets don't need much flare at all. If you can see the flare with the naked eye, it's probably too much for JHP's.

GasGuzzler wrote: ↑03 Mar 2024 07:57 Jacketed bullets don't need much flare at all. If you can see the flare with the naked eye, it's probably too much for JHP's.

So a slight flare should be adequate.
What is the difference between jacketed and lead as far as flaring goes?

Johnnyjr wrote: ↑03 Mar 2024 05:32 Try in both weapons. 5 in the rifle and 5 in the revolver. Sounds like you have done every thing right.
I use cast bullets in my rossi 92.. good luck,post your results.. johnny

When I get to the range I will report back.

Lead bullets are generally slightly larger in diameter. They also can shave if the brass is not sized or flared properly.

GasGuzzler wrote: ↑04 Mar 2024 07:35 Lead bullets are generally slightly larger in diameter. They also can shave if the brass is not sized or flared properly.

I got ya. For lead bullets with multiple lands; where do you normally crip-seat at?

dpowers92 wrote: ↑06 Mar 2024 00:03I got ya. For lead bullets with multiple lands; where do you normally crip-seat at?

I think you are referring to crimp grooves and there's not enough information in the question to answer that. Crimp grooves are the last consideration I have when loading lead bullets. Also, most molds make bullets with only one crimp groove anyway. The others are lube grooves most times.

I do have a NOE mold with one lube groove and two crimp grooves though.

Bullet length and weight, case volume, type of powder, gun's chamber are all more important on the OAL than where the mold maker put the crimp groove.

GasGuzzler wrote: ↑06 Mar 2024 06:52

dpowers92 wrote: ↑06 Mar 2024 00:03I got ya. For lead bullets with multiple lands; where do you normally crip-seat at?

I think you are referring to crimp grooves and there's not enough information in the question to answer that. Crimp grooves are the last consideration I have when loading lead bullets. Also, most molds make bullets with only one crimp groove anyway. The others are lube grooves most times.

I do have a NOE mold with one lube groove and two crimp grooves though.

Bullet length and weight, case volume, type of powder, gun's chamber are all more important on the OAL than where the mold maker put the crimp groove.

Yes crimp groves is what I was referring to.
And the information above is much appreciated. Thanks for the input.

Any thoughts on if I need to add crimp?
How do you know what is an adequate crimp on 357 magnum ammo?