Re: Starting from scratch
Posted: 23 Mar 2017 02:12
Coming in a little late to the party but here's my input...
I don't exactly recommend the Lee Hand press, it's an ok portable press for limited volume use but IMO you are better off attaching the Lee Reloader Press 90045 to a small board that you can C clamp in place on a shooting or work bench. You can thus still get almost the same portability out of it but it is MUCH more stable and easy to use than the hand press typically is. The downside is it isn't breech lock so you won't exactly be able to drop the dies in pre adjusted setup but adjustments aren't that difficult or time consuming.
IF you are going to load lead, and for that matter some of the plated bullets I would recommend getting the Lyman M expander die in the caliber you intend to load. Like RD I'd tend to recommend loading jacketed bullets to start however since they are a bit easier. The M die can be used for jacketed as well as lead. I'm a big fan.
The comments on the scale are important. You must have an accurate GRAIN scale NOT gram scale and unless your wife is measuring tiny weights you may need to get something dedicated to this purpose. Remember a grain is 1/7000th of a pound and you will probably be measuring something on the order of 5 to maybe 20 grains for .357 depending on your recipe and you want to be accurate down to ~.1 grain.
Reloading manual(s) and/or data are important. I know one person who's blown up two guns pulling data off the internet forums and not checking it against the manufacturer's charts. I like the Lyman and Hornady manuals but as has been mentioned by others I've probably collected 3 or 4 running feet of various manuals in multiple editions.
Lee dies are pretty good and economical. I prefer Redding powder measures but they are a bit expensive and the Lee ones will get you started. Many folks are happy with them and don't feel the need to upgrade, others decide to change to something different once they get into it for a while.
The Lee powder scale works but you need to pay attention to your environment. They are a precision instrument but because they are also lightweight plastic construction they are susceptible to light breezes or even static from plastic bins, Styrofoam blocks or whatever. No ceiling fans, open windows, or anything that has a static charge anywhere nearby when you are using them. With ANY scale, know how to adjust it and be careful putting the pan on and taking it off the scale to avoid changing the weight adjustment. The more recent Lee scales are not as easy to jar off weight than the older versions. I've seen the light poise weights on many makes of beam scales 'walk' up or down the beam if it isn't treated gently. I've seen precision lab grade electronic scales change weight readings depending on where you are standing. Get to know your equipment and how it works.
The Frankford trays are pretty good. They are better fitted to calibers than some of the others and are pretty compact. I'd prefer it if they had 55 or 60 holes as opposed to 50. The extra row of holes lets you keep a running gap between what's done and what's not but other than the trays a buddy of mine had when I was learning I haven't seen that style in a while. The MTM Universal trays made out of hard plastic with 3 different hole sizes and stepped holes on one side are a cute idea that doesn't work out well in practice. Be aware Frankford is putting out a copy of the MTM one now so you probably want to avoid that.
The MTM Universal Compact tray and similar ones from Lyman and Hornady are all pretty good. Could be made from the same mold with different name inserts and they'll stack together. If you go that route unless you are looking to vary the colors get whatever is least expensive.
Consistency may be the hobgoblin of the small mind but consistency is your goal in reloading and if you are not consistent you better give it up. IF you can follow a recipe out of a cookbook without the need to always change something and you get good results you can reload.
P.S.
Unique and Power Pistol for .38 level loads and H110 or Win 296 for full bore magnum loads.
I don't exactly recommend the Lee Hand press, it's an ok portable press for limited volume use but IMO you are better off attaching the Lee Reloader Press 90045 to a small board that you can C clamp in place on a shooting or work bench. You can thus still get almost the same portability out of it but it is MUCH more stable and easy to use than the hand press typically is. The downside is it isn't breech lock so you won't exactly be able to drop the dies in pre adjusted setup but adjustments aren't that difficult or time consuming.
IF you are going to load lead, and for that matter some of the plated bullets I would recommend getting the Lyman M expander die in the caliber you intend to load. Like RD I'd tend to recommend loading jacketed bullets to start however since they are a bit easier. The M die can be used for jacketed as well as lead. I'm a big fan.
The comments on the scale are important. You must have an accurate GRAIN scale NOT gram scale and unless your wife is measuring tiny weights you may need to get something dedicated to this purpose. Remember a grain is 1/7000th of a pound and you will probably be measuring something on the order of 5 to maybe 20 grains for .357 depending on your recipe and you want to be accurate down to ~.1 grain.
Reloading manual(s) and/or data are important. I know one person who's blown up two guns pulling data off the internet forums and not checking it against the manufacturer's charts. I like the Lyman and Hornady manuals but as has been mentioned by others I've probably collected 3 or 4 running feet of various manuals in multiple editions.
Lee dies are pretty good and economical. I prefer Redding powder measures but they are a bit expensive and the Lee ones will get you started. Many folks are happy with them and don't feel the need to upgrade, others decide to change to something different once they get into it for a while.
The Lee powder scale works but you need to pay attention to your environment. They are a precision instrument but because they are also lightweight plastic construction they are susceptible to light breezes or even static from plastic bins, Styrofoam blocks or whatever. No ceiling fans, open windows, or anything that has a static charge anywhere nearby when you are using them. With ANY scale, know how to adjust it and be careful putting the pan on and taking it off the scale to avoid changing the weight adjustment. The more recent Lee scales are not as easy to jar off weight than the older versions. I've seen the light poise weights on many makes of beam scales 'walk' up or down the beam if it isn't treated gently. I've seen precision lab grade electronic scales change weight readings depending on where you are standing. Get to know your equipment and how it works.
The Frankford trays are pretty good. They are better fitted to calibers than some of the others and are pretty compact. I'd prefer it if they had 55 or 60 holes as opposed to 50. The extra row of holes lets you keep a running gap between what's done and what's not but other than the trays a buddy of mine had when I was learning I haven't seen that style in a while. The MTM Universal trays made out of hard plastic with 3 different hole sizes and stepped holes on one side are a cute idea that doesn't work out well in practice. Be aware Frankford is putting out a copy of the MTM one now so you probably want to avoid that.
The MTM Universal Compact tray and similar ones from Lyman and Hornady are all pretty good. Could be made from the same mold with different name inserts and they'll stack together. If you go that route unless you are looking to vary the colors get whatever is least expensive.
Consistency may be the hobgoblin of the small mind but consistency is your goal in reloading and if you are not consistent you better give it up. IF you can follow a recipe out of a cookbook without the need to always change something and you get good results you can reload.
P.S.
Unique and Power Pistol for .38 level loads and H110 or Win 296 for full bore magnum loads.