Rossi Rifleman

I had a buddy who used to heat things up with a hair dryer before using cold blue...

I used a heat gun... got the metal parts warm enough that it was almost uncomfortable to touch. Every time i look at this little pea shooter I am more and more pleased with the way the blueing turned out. As it ages its getting a little darker, and a more of an antique look to it.

I started getting into making SA Revolver grips out of exotic woods. and after doing some crazy grips for my dad's Ruger NMBH 45LC Controvertible, and an old S&W .357 I have some ideas for a new stock for this little Rossie that I am thinking on carving out this winter as just a little (big) project to keep me busy. I am thinking of sandwiching a piece of brazillian bloodwood between a couple pieces of walnut. The plan is to carve and sand through the walnut exposing the blood wood in the stock, and carving the pump grip down into the blood wood. I made a machete handle a couple of weeks a go in this manner and it looks sick.

Nice work keep us posted to your rifle stock work

I hope to start working on the new stock late this month or early next month.

Enjoyed your journey. The tip about applying heat before the cold blue is applied gave me hope I could do this with the results I want. Most touched up bluing I've seen look like a gloppy layer of nail polish vs the metal being "blued".

Get a good bluing agent - half the battle.

Make smoke,

NavyDoc76-80 wrote:Enjoyed your journey. The tip about applying heat before the cold blue is applied gave me hope I could do this with the results I want. Most touched up bluing I've seen look like a gloppy layer of nail polish vs the metal being "blued".

I used a heat gun to heat the metal enough to make it uncomfortable for me to touch then started the bluing process. For bluing agent I used Birchwood Casey's Super Blue. I probably didn't let it sit long enough on the metal, but I was going more for an antique aged look rather than a brand new factory blue.