Extremely easy and quick finish for your Rossi

[akuser47]

Your wood looks like walnut mine is one of the mystery woods from god only knows where. Yours is what I would call beauty with the finish that you have applied. I like mine don't get me wrong I made it as good as it can be but it still is an odd grained wood yours is a nice lookin walnut wood stock. Thank you for the compliments on mine

[temmi]

Esel,

You did a great job.


I just finised "finishing" the stock on my 92.

It looked ... frankly unfinished.

I used Truoil and it worked great.


It was very easy to do but while the bottle said it would "dry" in 2-3 hours it took at least 6 for me.

It is a very easy finish to use.

Snake

[Esel]

Thanks Snake for the compliments! I really do like Truoil as well. It's worked for me a number of times now, although I've never used it in the normal way. Speeding up the process with this method has been a good thing for me. Not sure why, because I'm retired now, and have all of the time in the world. Must be a "patience" thing! Hope your happy with the way yours turned out.

Esel

[pricedo]

My stock was till "wet" after 4 hours ........best to leave it all night.
I'll buff with very fine steel wool once the coat has set & cured (24 hours).
The metal degreaser took the Tru-Oil spillage on the metal off like it was never there.

[pricedo]

I always liked cow hide or coarse grain leather for buffing newly finished gun stocks.
I think that's what I'll use since I have some leftover rawhide from other jobs.

The stock is nice & dark cause of the Rossi "shoe polish" pigment being left on rather than stripped off.
I like a darker looking walnut-like finish instead of the anemic light finish I've seen on some stripped and Tru-Oiled stocks.
Again.......PERSONAL PREFERENCE is the operative criterion.

I put the oil right on the stock in situ on the gun cause the oil will seal the w/m gaps and keep moisture out.
This also avoids having to deal with the Popeye installed Rossi forearm when reassembling the gun.
Rather than pressure-relieve a crappy stock I'd get the real walnut butt stock & forearm blanks from Precision and properly fit them from the getgo.
I'm not spending an afternoon pressure-relieving a lousy balsa stock when the same effort + $100 would give me the real walnut deal.
When I own 3 dozen rifles and as many handguns money is obviously NOT a critical deciding factor & neither is a 1/2" @ 50 yard accuracy gain in an essentially MOAPP (minute of aluminum pie plate) gun.
We're not talking Surgeon actions, Jewel triggers & Kreiger barrels here.
These are MOAPP at 50 yard deer hunting rifles.......lets keep a firm grasp on that perspective.

[BNSF]

Have any of you found the Armorall and Tru oil finish, post,, I had it but lost it, probly could google it.

[Ranch Dog]

Have any of you found the Armorall and Tru oil finish, post,, I had it but lost it, probly could google it.

Please see the very first post in this topic. The link is there.

[pricedo]

Don't forget boiled linseed oil if you just want to preserve and waterproof the stock without changing the appearance.
I use it on my old original Winchester pre-64 model 94s where I want to preserve the battle-scarred legacy look as well as protect the wood of the stock from the elements.

[joec]

I actually started on my Rossi 92 octagon barrel but couldn't get the fore stock off so taped it and left it on the gun. I started by sanding with 400 grit paper followed by 800 grit then 0000 steel wool. I then whipped it down with rubbing alcohol let it dry and put the first layer of TruOil on. I didn't have any Amoral so followed the instructions on the bottle. I will give it 6 to 8 coats of the True oil then follow that with the Stock Sheen & Conditioner for 3 coats then the Gun Stock Wax all by Birchwood Casey. After one coat it looks better than it did.

Oh and I've not found any instructions on removing the fore stock as my book only showed the other for a round barrel. I might add the screw on mine that holds in the magazine cap fits into a dimple on the bottom of the barrel which I did remove as well as the two screws in the cap that hold the front of the fore stock. Even with those out it didn't budge and not wanting to force it I simply reassembled it and taped it off with blue painters tape.

[44-40 Willy]

Did you get the pin that holds the tube in the front magazine hanger?