Rossi Rifleman

Hello all, my first post here.

My m92 stainless has what I consider sharp edges on the loop. I've had the gun for about a year and always thought it was a little too "sharp", but now find it totally too much after I brought home a JM stamped Marlin 336 and compared the edges of the 2 guns.

can someone give me some ideas on how to "ease" the edges on the loop/lever? Given that it's stainless I won't have to worry about grinding down a blued finish?

Also, the top part of my forend/front wood also has very sharp corners all along the top. Any special tricks removing the forend?

Welcome to the forum. I would think you you use stainless steel wool to work the edges, two grades, one to work the edge down and one to finish it to your liking. Just be sure you use stainless on stainless.

Hopefully some others will join in with other ideas or confirming my suggestion.

Rd has a good suggestion.
If you don't do that you can try this.
If the loop is actaully stainless steel. You can use high grit wet dry sand paper. With master caution on not over doing it 800 to 1000 grit will soften the edges almost polishing them. You can scotch brit pad them after the fact if you don't like the polished look the high grit can give. Keep us posted.

leather wrap

Leatherwrap or paracord is another good option.

akuser47 wrote:Rd has a good suggestion.
If you don't do that you can try this.
If the loop is actaully stainless steel. You can use high grit wet dry sand paper. With master caution on not over doing it 800 to 1000 grit will soften the edges almost polishing them. You can scotch brit pad them after the fact if you don't like the polished look the high grit can give. Keep us posted.

I'll give the scotch brite first and if that doesn't take off enough, 1000 grit, then 800 if I really have to.
I've seen leather and paracord wrapped on the lever on other guns, although that's an option... It's not for me.

Scotch bright just gives a dull finish like bead blasted you will need to sand a little to hack away the bite of sharp edges. If you are careful you will not have any issues. Go to any auto parts store for black wet dry sandpaper. 800 too 1000 grit it will soften the edges without removing much of anything. I used 1000 grit in the flutes on my mark III ruger then finished polished them to this my pistil barrel flutes were so crude the edges of each flute could cut you. I fixed that.

Took some 1000 grit to the sharp edges, didn't do much. Tried some 800 grit and those sharp edges are feeling pretty good now. I now need to polish with my dremmel.

I used some fine grit on the of the buttplate on my SS .44 R92 very soon after I got it that sucker was darned near as sharp as a tricorn bayonet. I might have used 400 grit.