Rossi Rifleman

I recently made an attempt to install the spring kit from Brownells in my new Rossi 92 20" in .357 Magnum.

All went pretty well until I tried to install the Ejector Spring which is at least twice as long as the stock spring. In my experience, this long spring makes reassembly virtually impossible, as it must remain compressed in order to install the bushing and slide the bolt into the chamber. Yes, I used a dummy round.

I put the other springs in as well as some modest stoning of the channel in which the trigger is installed to remove drill burrs.

I used the video from Steve's Gunz and it was quite helpful but I worked out the following additional techniques:

1. When installing the new mainspring, it would require Hulk-like strength to compress it enough to get the paper clip back in. Answer: Slide the spring onto the shaft, install the clip between the windings, and rotate the spring to, in effect, screw it in under the pin. Done in seconds.
2. After installing the lever and locking bars (don't mess with the screws, it's unnecessary and they mess up the head-space adjustment which could be dangerous), when you install the pin, make sure it's driven securely and all the way in or you will find you can't open the bolt. This pin MOVES WITH THE LEVER, so it must not protrude into the receiver assembly.

Neither Steve's Gunz or any other procedures I found on the web addressed these issues.

If any one has experience with the ejector spring, I sure could use some pointers.

Thanks,

Jeff

same with my brownells kit. I just went back to the stock ejector spring and when the required efforts were measured, the trigger pull stayed the same and force required to rack the action was only minimally affected.

OK, I figured things out.

Installing the longer ejector spring remains a PIA, but, if you hold the bushing in place with a punch, you can finesse it in. Be prepared to search the floor many times for when the bushing goes BOING.

Now for the good news...

WOW, what a difference. Instead of launching your brass into orbit when you eject (not good if you reload like me), now, the empty neatly pops out the top about 4 inches or so. It has little impact on the handling of the gun or how smooth it is, but you will spend a lot less time on your hands and knees picking up brass from all over.

I hope this information is useful.

Good shootin'

Jeff

I'm using a lighter spring than the factory original and it's on;y very slightly longer, so no problem there.

The little "trick" I have been using to keep it all together is to insert a wooden dowel, as long as the bnolt is wide, into the bolt pin hole until I am ready to install the actual pin and then push the dowel out when I have the holes lined up, right to left, through the hole in the reciever and then insert and seat the steel pin after inserting the lever. The dowel keeps the collar where it should be and no spontaneous auto-disassemblies occur while trying to put the bolt into the reciever. The dummy .357 is still required as yoiu withdraw the bolt to aling the holes but I bet a .357 max case would be better.

The dowel was from stock I had in the wood shop, but a piece of brass or delrin might be a bit classier and more durable. Bevel the ends of the dowel.

Just use a dummy round or empty shell to lock in and put it into the gun once you do that you can get it back together into the receiver and drive the pin in so you can loose the round/empty shell then

That's what I did. Still, not a simple task... takes all your fingers.

Jeff