I'm Going to Ruin this Marlin 336 in 35 Remington

[akuser47]

lookin good keep us updated

[pricedo]

I didn't have much time so far this weekend, but I did manage to cut down the tang and slim the stock.

Guess you're gonna need to heat the curved factory 336C finger lever loop and reshape it to fit the reshaped straight stock or get another lever.
Others may not agree but I kinda like the square finger lever loops of the Guide Guns.

[klr]

Guess you're gonna need to heat the curved factory 336C finger lever loop and reshape it to fit the reshaped straight stock or get another lever.
Others may not agree but I kinda like the square finger lever loops of the Guide Guns.

I've seen posted pics of bending it cold. Just laid it on the floor and used a hammer and some homebrew punches.

I've seen posted pics of heating and bending. If I go this route I'll have to devise a way to keep heat from getting to the rest of the lever.

I'm thinking of making a new loop from scratch and welding it to the lever after I cut off the old loop.

Also thinking about cutting the loop at the lower forward point, bending the lever with it slightly wider at the back, and then welding in a short piece to fill the gap. Reblue or cover with a leather wrap on the bottom of the loop.

I agree with those who disagree with you. I don't like the square loop.

[Archer]

I've seen posted pics of heating and bending. If I go this route I'll have to devise a way to keep heat from getting to the rest of the lever.

Clamp a big honking plate of aluminum on each side of the part you want to remove the heat from.
The aluminum should absorb and radiate the heat away from the steel.

The article I read on this conversion said he used no heat but just lightly tapped it with punches and a large enough hammer chasing the shape until it was right and then cleaning it up a bit with a file.

[pricedo]

I've seen posted pics of heating and bending. If I go this route I'll have to devise a way to keep heat from getting to the rest of the lever.

Clamp a big honking plate of aluminum on each side of the part you want to remove the heat from.
The aluminum should absorb and radiate the heat away from the steel.

That might be a problem........the thickest aluminum I've got around here is tin foil which is good for wrapping stuff and making hats.

[klr]

The lever bent easily cold. My dad stopped in and helped and we used a variety of aluminum pieces to hold it and an oak block to hit it with. I won't even need to reblue.

[pricedo]

The lever bent easily cold. My dad stopped in and helped and we used a variety of aluminum pieces to hold it and an oak block to hit it with. I won't even need to reblue.

Looks kinda small.......my hands would likely never fit in it but it is definitely in line with the bottom tang of the butt stock.

[klr]

Looks kinda small.......my hands would likely never fit in it but it is definitely in line with the bottom tang of the butt stock.

There is plenty of room for me, but it does get a little pinched-off looking at the end. It's a result of there being less material on the bottom due to the tighter radius of the original configuration.

I really want to make a lever something like this, but spring is here and time is short. Maybe next winter.

[pricedo]

Looks kinda small.......my hands would likely never fit in it but it is definitely in line with the bottom tang of the butt stock.

There is plenty of room for me, but it does get a little pinched-off looking at the end. It's a result of there being less material on the bottom due to the tighter radius of the original configuration.

I really want to make a lever something like this, but spring is here and time is short. Maybe next winter.

Looks like the old Marlin 1893, 36 configuration with the square bolt.

[klr]

I still need a few more coats of Tru-Oil, but I couldn't wait to see what it looked like finished.

It weighs 2 ounces more than a 20" R92 357.