How to grind the lower dentent inside the receiver?
How to grind the lower dentent inside the receiver?
I've been watching Steve's video and he mentions that on the .44 and .45 rifles, the detents are inside the receiver. Anyone have suggestions on how to get in there and fix them? I have a Dremel and used a coarse wheel, but I don't think it's working well.
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Re: How to grind the lower dentent inside the receiver?
This is one of the tuffer jobs in the tune options a dremel can be hard to use in such tight confines. I would opt to use jeweler file and there like small and fine . Takes time but more control
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Re: How to grind the lower dentent inside the receiver?
armymutt,
First off , I guess I should say that I have never seen Steves video.
I DO NOT think that I would use a course wheel on anything inside the rossi. Sounds like you have already done it though, I hope it works out for you and does not ruin it.
I have used a CRATEX polishing wheel in a dremel, on a couple of my 92s, but find that a piece of 600 wet or dry wrapped around a finger does all that I need to do. AND IS A LOT SAFER! That teamed with rounding, polishing the detent ball, and using a lighter spring behind it too.
All you need to do to those cuts, is to break the sharp edge on them so that the detent ball can pop out a little easier. I would think that a course stone would take them out completely.
BTW, the cuts are in the receiver on ALL sizes of Rossis. The Winchesters had the cuts made into a plate/spacer made onto the left cartridge guide, on the 25-20 and 32-20 models.
http://homesteadparts.com/shopcart/cart ... ct/756.jpg
First off , I guess I should say that I have never seen Steves video.
I DO NOT think that I would use a course wheel on anything inside the rossi. Sounds like you have already done it though, I hope it works out for you and does not ruin it.
I have used a CRATEX polishing wheel in a dremel, on a couple of my 92s, but find that a piece of 600 wet or dry wrapped around a finger does all that I need to do. AND IS A LOT SAFER! That teamed with rounding, polishing the detent ball, and using a lighter spring behind it too.
All you need to do to those cuts, is to break the sharp edge on them so that the detent ball can pop out a little easier. I would think that a course stone would take them out completely.
BTW, the cuts are in the receiver on ALL sizes of Rossis. The Winchesters had the cuts made into a plate/spacer made onto the left cartridge guide, on the 25-20 and 32-20 models.
http://homesteadparts.com/shopcart/cart ... ct/756.jpg
Don Huff
to bad those that know it all, cant do it all!
16" SS 92 357
20" BL 92 357
20" SS 92 44
20" BL 92 44
20" Bl 92 45C
20" Bl 92 454
SS Rio Grande 30-30
Bl Rio Grande 45-70
to bad those that know it all, cant do it all!
16" SS 92 357
20" BL 92 357
20" SS 92 44
20" BL 92 44
20" Bl 92 45C
20" Bl 92 454
SS Rio Grande 30-30
Bl Rio Grande 45-70
- pricedo
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Re: How to grind the lower dentent inside the receiver?
I'll reiterate emphatically what donhuff & akuser47 have said.armymutt wrote:I've been watching Steve's video and he mentions that on the .44 and .45 rifles, the detents are inside the receiver. Anyone have suggestions on how to get in there and fix them? I have a Dremel and used a coarse wheel, but I don't think it's working well.
I'd very careful and plan it out to the last detail BEFORE any removal of metal and even then remove the minimum amount necessary to accomplish the task......be a METAL MISER in all deburring & polishing operations on the parts of a gun.
As akuser47 said it's all about CONTROL.
This is a job for fine tools & lots of patience......no course grinding wheels, files or bits.
Guns aren't like Swiss Chard...........the metal doesn't grow back after being removed.
Be very careful !!
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Re: How to grind the lower dentent inside the receiver?
I would leave the top on alone except to remove any burrs. The bottom one only needs to to rounded off a bit. Go easy. Once done, you will feel an improvement in smoothness as the ramp will allow the detent to slip out easier.
Re: How to grind the lower dentent inside the receiver?
The coarse wheel worked just fine - it's all in how you use it. Finally got the right angle and just barely touched the edge. Finished it off with a file and then emery cloth. Not quite as smooth as the .357, but it's much easier when the divet is out of the gun. Might go back in at a later date after I have established some good wear patterns. I'm probably a little more light handed than most - comes in handy when cutting out cat uteruses.
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Re: How to grind the lower dentent inside the receiver?
OK, you just scared me when you said "coarse wheel" I had visions of you grinding the notches completely away, and the detent ball would have nothing to hold the carrier in the up position. Gravity would take care of the down spot I think.
Have you ever used a cratex wheel? It's hard to over do it when using one of those instead of a stone.
"when the divet is out of the gun"?
Have you ever used a cratex wheel? It's hard to over do it when using one of those instead of a stone.
"when the divet is out of the gun"?
Don Huff
to bad those that know it all, cant do it all!
16" SS 92 357
20" BL 92 357
20" SS 92 44
20" BL 92 44
20" Bl 92 45C
20" Bl 92 454
SS Rio Grande 30-30
Bl Rio Grande 45-70
to bad those that know it all, cant do it all!
16" SS 92 357
20" BL 92 357
20" SS 92 44
20" BL 92 44
20" Bl 92 45C
20" Bl 92 454
SS Rio Grande 30-30
Bl Rio Grande 45-70
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Re: How to grind the lower dentent inside the receiver?
donhuff wrote:OK, you just scared me when you said "coarse wheel" I had visions of you grinding the notches completely away, and the detent ball would have nothing to hold the carrier in the up position. Gravity would take care of the down spot I think.
Have you ever used a cratex wheel? It's hard to over do it when using one of those instead of a stone.
"when the divet is out of the gun"?
On the .357 guns (mine is this way at least) the divets are part of the left side cartridge guide assembly and are not part of the receiver as they are on the .44 (apparently) and the other larger caliber 92s like the Brownings and Winchesters. So you get to operate on the lower divet with it out of the gun after removing the left side guide screw.
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Re: How to grind the lower dentent inside the receiver?
Really? sorry, I just assumed (you know what they say) they were all the same. Is yours an older gun? Braztech?
That sure would make it a lot easier to work on those divits.
My 357 is just like the 44-45s, cut in the receiver side. I guess maybe Braztech figured out that they could save money by making all the receivers just alike, and make the carrier wider on the 357 model to reach over and engage those divits, since it's a cast part.
That sure would make it a lot easier to work on those divits.
My 357 is just like the 44-45s, cut in the receiver side. I guess maybe Braztech figured out that they could save money by making all the receivers just alike, and make the carrier wider on the 357 model to reach over and engage those divits, since it's a cast part.
Don Huff
to bad those that know it all, cant do it all!
16" SS 92 357
20" BL 92 357
20" SS 92 44
20" BL 92 44
20" Bl 92 45C
20" Bl 92 454
SS Rio Grande 30-30
Bl Rio Grande 45-70
to bad those that know it all, cant do it all!
16" SS 92 357
20" BL 92 357
20" SS 92 44
20" BL 92 44
20" Bl 92 45C
20" Bl 92 454
SS Rio Grande 30-30
Bl Rio Grande 45-70
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Re: How to grind the lower dentent inside the receiver?
Mine is a Braztech import that I just bought new in December. I have no experience with the older Rossi models but it sounds like you are right - that they changed the design somewhere along the way.
This is off topic but another design change that my rifle has is that the extractor (not the ejector) is thinner than the one shown in Steve's video. I removed it thinking I would need to grind it down as Steve describes but it wasn't necessary as it is already much thinner than the square profile of the one in his video. It doesn't damage the brass at all and slips over the cartridge rims with ease.
This is off topic but another design change that my rifle has is that the extractor (not the ejector) is thinner than the one shown in Steve's video. I removed it thinking I would need to grind it down as Steve describes but it wasn't necessary as it is already much thinner than the square profile of the one in his video. It doesn't damage the brass at all and slips over the cartridge rims with ease.