Am I nuts?
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Am I nuts?
I recently got back a 92 from customer service. They adjusted the extractor, replaced the forcing cone and replaced that pesky screw through the rear band. Here's my dilemma: I would like to remove the wood fore-end so I can do a thorough job of applying Tru-Oil. To do so I guess I have to remove the muzzle clamp and fore-end band screw (!). Is it ill advised to risk a difficult reassembly just to be able to seal the barrel channel and behind the band with Tru-Oil? Would I be better off just applying Tru-Oil to the fore-end as is, where is? Sometimes pursuing that last 5% of perfection can get a person into a passel of trouble. What do you think?
- pricedo
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Re: Am I nuts?
Caribouriver wrote:I recently got back a 92 from customer service. They adjusted the extractor, replaced the forcing cone and replaced that pesky screw through the rear band. Here's my dilemma: I would like to remove the wood fore-end so I can do a thorough job of applying Tru-Oil. To do so I guess I have to remove the muzzle clamp and fore-end band screw (!). Is it ill advised to risk a difficult reassembly just to be able to seal the barrel channel and behind the band with Tru-Oil? Would I be better off just applying Tru-Oil to the fore-end as is, where is? Sometimes pursuing that last 5% of perfection can get a person into a passel of trouble. What do you think?
Rossis fit & finish man (the one & only)
There is a lot of internal stress in the forearms of these BrazTech generation rifles because the forearms were forced and torqued on rather than properly fitted to the rifle. The stress possibly affects the accuracy of the rifles so if I was faced with this dilemma I'd kill two birds with one stone......1) properly seal the barrel channel and 2) properly fit & relieve the forearm.
It's a PITB but once it's done it's over and done with and you probably will have improved the accuracy of your rifle.
RD has written volumes about relieving the forearms of these Rossi 92 rifles in other threads on this forum and he's the resident expert on that topic.
*Maybe BrazTech has fixed the problem in the latest runs of rifles but I seriously doubt it. Perhaps you'll be pleasantly surprised. Just as a precaution I'd take all the hanging pictures down off my walls before starting work on the forearm.
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- akuser47
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Re: Am I nuts?
Its all what your comfortable in tackling. I like to tear stuff apart. Sometimgs I have extra parts left over.... Its not hard just take your time. Pay attention to what goes where even if that means taking pictures as you tear it down. I have taped screws to a piece of paper with notes beside them like direction of screw head in relation to left of right side of weapon. The forearm band can be a stinker but if done right it can be better than it was from the factory.
Keep us posted if you decided to jump in with both feet..
Keep us posted if you decided to jump in with both feet..
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Re: Am I nuts?
I went through the same concerns when doing mine, took it all the way down and fortunately it
went back together OK. It seems to me that doing the TruOil hand rubbed finish would go a lot smoother with the stocks off, I was concerned about the finish getting down in between the wood and the
barrel,mag tube and action. Plus I wanted to seal the stocks in the barrel channel and mag
tube hole.
I did file the notch on the barrel slightly, you could see where the screw
was making contact, and opened the holes in the fore stock a little. The band screw seemed very
"soft", make sure you use the correct size screwdriver, makes a world of difference, got a set of tips
from Brownells just for the 92, to me well worth the cost.
Rick
went back together OK. It seems to me that doing the TruOil hand rubbed finish would go a lot smoother with the stocks off, I was concerned about the finish getting down in between the wood and the
barrel,mag tube and action. Plus I wanted to seal the stocks in the barrel channel and mag
tube hole.
I did file the notch on the barrel slightly, you could see where the screw
was making contact, and opened the holes in the fore stock a little. The band screw seemed very
"soft", make sure you use the correct size screwdriver, makes a world of difference, got a set of tips
from Brownells just for the 92, to me well worth the cost.
Rick
- pricedo
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Re: Am I nuts?
Here's a man who's solved the Rossi parts problem..........here ! here !Tuco Ramirez wrote:Sometimgs I have extra parts left over....
**seriously - I hope Rossi takes the hint sometime and takes remedial measures to ensure better fitting of the forearm to the gun. Perhaps that'll change in the next run of guns. We can always hope.
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Re: Am I nuts?
Ha ha. You guys understand pickles. I likely will take it apart and try and ease contact points for an easy reassembly. As much as I "hope" Rossi did well by me when it went in for warranty work (and eased the band screw's contact points), I'll just hope for the best but expect the worst. I recall being puzzled the first time I took off the band screw. I was puzzled that it was SO DARN DIFFICULT to turn the whole way out. I thought it was cross threaded. As I came to find out from this forum, since it was out of alignment from one side to the other, it had to flex through each and every revolution. My hands have been collecting arthritis over the years and I just could not apply enough force to get it to thread back in during reassembly. Rossi's repair shop did when they fixed the other problems. I'll know what to expect this time if the band screw comes off with a a lot of resistance. I'll keep you posted. Thanks again for your help and encouragement.
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Re: Am I nuts?
When I disassemble a Rossi, I ALWAYS have parts left over. Safety and hammer lock at least.Tuco Ramirez wrote:Sometimgs I have extra parts left over....
Fitting the forend is not too bad, I just did another last night.
For the OP, I would recommend skipping the Tru-Oil and going with Linseed or Tung. If you want something that goes a little faster and easier, use the tung oil, or raw linseed oil if you are willing to spend a bit more time.
Both will penetrate much better than Tru-Oil, which does not penetrate well and does not give you the advantages of a true oil finish. While True-Oil will easily make a nice looking finish, it does not make a durable finish, and it does not seal and stabilize the wood like oil does. I have used it before because everyone raves about it, and have been disappointed in the results. They basically made a varnish look and act like an oil, but it does not provide the benefits of an oil.
I think that Tru-Oil is the emperor's new finish, and no one is willing to point out that the stock is still naked . . .