Ranch Dog, thanks so much for the insight into the engineering of the NOE rail. I now understand why it works so well, even if it does not match the curve of the barrel along the entire rail. It does indeed make contact where it counts.
Recoil calculations certainly must have been accurately considered. The screws are strong. Here's the tale of "My Bad". The first fall I hunted with my .45 Colt with rail and scout scope on top, I missed some gimme shots at whitetails, and killed 4 muleys, all with bad bullet placement. When I got home, I investigated the causes of the poor accuracy. I found the rail mounting screws loose!! Rats. I guess I had a screw loose too when I forgot to properly torque the screws when mounting the rail.
The screws seemed none the worse for having been subjected to the impact of the rail "flopping about" under recoil. Yuck. Since then I've reset the screws with Loctite and proper torque.
Hope I never pull that ROOKIE MISTAKE again.
NOE R92 'scope rail
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Re: NOE R92 'scope rail
Thanks!
In case you have never seen it, here is Weaver's guidelines for the various screws and mount cross bolts.
Here is a link to a complete detail on the Weaver brand of bases and rings, along with their Simmons and Redfield brands: Weaver Torque Specifications
In the past, I've been pretty good about following suggested specs and even have torque screwdrivers and wrenches. I don't have a place to get these devices certified anymore and I knew my rather high dollar driver had somehow gotten out of spec, so I've been tightening screws my feel. Where this became critical was a mount for my Mini-30 with the weight of the night vision scope. I over tighten the base screws, and they failed. The outfit sent me new screws, and I went ahead and bought a new driver, the Weaver #849728. I added a link to MidwayUSA because I noticed it was on sale! I had considered the Wheeler product as it is about $10 less, but the range is less than the Weaver, it is on sale as well.
What I do to get a true torque on the screws is run them all in and out while in hand. That puts a bit of wear on them and frees them and the hole threads from any mico-burrs that might exist. Sometimes the base screws come with a thread locker, so you are wearing through that, but that "locker" in its dried state is going to influence the torque of a screw and the value will come up short on the in/lbs. I reapply Loctite blue or red if specified I've, but use the blue if neither is stated.
Blue can be removed with hand tools. Red has screwed up a high percentage of the screws it has secured because people don't know how to remove it. It needs heat. The best way I know to overcome the bond of red is to heat the driver to be used with a propane torch until it glows, touch it to the screw head and let it set a few seconds to transfer the heat, and then tap the driver with a small hammer to shatter the seal. The red must be heated to 500°C to be removed to prevent damage to the screw or attach holes.
Ahhh, don't use a torque driver to remove screws!
In case you have never seen it, here is Weaver's guidelines for the various screws and mount cross bolts.
Here is a link to a complete detail on the Weaver brand of bases and rings, along with their Simmons and Redfield brands: Weaver Torque Specifications
In the past, I've been pretty good about following suggested specs and even have torque screwdrivers and wrenches. I don't have a place to get these devices certified anymore and I knew my rather high dollar driver had somehow gotten out of spec, so I've been tightening screws my feel. Where this became critical was a mount for my Mini-30 with the weight of the night vision scope. I over tighten the base screws, and they failed. The outfit sent me new screws, and I went ahead and bought a new driver, the Weaver #849728. I added a link to MidwayUSA because I noticed it was on sale! I had considered the Wheeler product as it is about $10 less, but the range is less than the Weaver, it is on sale as well.
What I do to get a true torque on the screws is run them all in and out while in hand. That puts a bit of wear on them and frees them and the hole threads from any mico-burrs that might exist. Sometimes the base screws come with a thread locker, so you are wearing through that, but that "locker" in its dried state is going to influence the torque of a screw and the value will come up short on the in/lbs. I reapply Loctite blue or red if specified I've, but use the blue if neither is stated.
Blue can be removed with hand tools. Red has screwed up a high percentage of the screws it has secured because people don't know how to remove it. It needs heat. The best way I know to overcome the bond of red is to heat the driver to be used with a propane torch until it glows, touch it to the screw head and let it set a few seconds to transfer the heat, and then tap the driver with a small hammer to shatter the seal. The red must be heated to 500°C to be removed to prevent damage to the screw or attach holes.
Ahhh, don't use a torque driver to remove screws!
Michael
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Re: NOE R92 'scope rail
When mine arrived from NOE one of the first things we did was try it on a Chiappa 92. Only one of the screw holes lined up - easily fixed - but the fit appeared better on that barrel.
I only use 44 special level loads in my Rossi 92 but over 1000 rounds later and it's not moved. Admittedly 200 grains over a load of Trail Boss giving 1080 fps so not a mammoth test:)
More than happy with it!
I only use 44 special level loads in my Rossi 92 but over 1000 rounds later and it's not moved. Admittedly 200 grains over a load of Trail Boss giving 1080 fps so not a mammoth test:)
More than happy with it!