Rossi 92 12 inch barrel

[Centaur 1]

Just go to a metal finishing shop have them use a blaster with walnut or conventional media to cause the stainless to be a matte stainless. Problem solved remove ur wood n buttstock it should fit into most shops blast cabinet. Just brain storming. Be sure to seal your barrel at chamber and muzzle if u do this.

Foam earplugs work great for sealing the barrel. Don't forget to put one in the chamber as well as the muzzle. Do this before bead blasting or Cerracote. A few months back I had someone bring a new AR-15 to the range where I work. He really wanted his rifle to be olive drab, so he took his brand new, never fired rifle over to a friends house, where they each cerracoted a rifle. When this poor guy fired the first round, the rifle locked up tighter than a drum. It turned out that he never plugged the chamber before painting the rifle. He had enough over-spray in the chamber that it wouldn't release the fired case.

[HarryAlonzo]

Still waiting on the stamp but threaded it for use with a can in the interim.

I may be taking this string sideways, but . . .

What caliber? What thread size? How did you deal with the front sight and the magazine tube? Is it quiet? Thanks!

[kingstrider]

Still waiting on the stamp but threaded it for use with a can in the interim.

I may be taking this string sideways, but . . .

What caliber? What thread size? How did you deal with the front sight and the magazine tube? Is it quiet? Thanks!

I posted a separate thread about it here:
http://rossi-rifleman.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=5606

[7.62 Precision]

When I was in NZ a few months ago, I was looking at setting up to do DuraCoat, so I know that prices are high and availability is limited there, so you might have to have it special ordered, but I would recommend DuraBlue.

It is a coating, that when applied correctly in many very light layers looks like a very high-quality blueing. Works very well over stainless.

I have some photos of it on leverguns, but not posted anywhere because they were submitted to a magazine for an article that hasn't been published yet.

Here are some photos of it on a K31:



If you use DuraNitre blue over stainless steel on the screws and small parts, (prepping with a wire brush) it will look outstanding. I'll dig up some photos and post later.

[akuser47]

Looks good 7.62, I remember when durablue came out. I was curious how well it worked. Looks good.

[7.62 Precision]

DuraNitre on a 1911 controls. This was not stainless, and it pops way better on stainless:



DuraBlue on a Winchester 94:

[7.62 Precision]

Looks good 7.62, I remember when durablue came out. I was curious how well it worked. Looks good.

I was also curious to the point of being very skeptical, but having applied it on a number of firearms, I am definitely impressed now.

[GasGuzzler]

A fix for all those Ruger SR1911s out there....

[Archer]

A fix for all those Ruger SR1911s out there....

Buddy of mine had his slide cerakoted. If it'd been original I'd have snapped it up in a heartbeat but with it blackened in what I considered a less than perfect application I passed. I could go for the above treatment I think but I'll bet application and experience are KEY to getting a good appearance.