(Another) Recoil Pad Thread - Kick-EEZ
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(Another) Recoil Pad Thread - Kick-EEZ
So as not to take RD's thread on the Boyd's stock off topic, I will post this here. I think that I have found an easy solution to the recoil pad issue for the 92. It does require modification to the stock. However it only took me about 20 minutes to do. Since I had the stock off already, I decided it was time to re-finish the wood but that is not necessary for the installation of the recoil pad. The pad that I am going to use is the Kick-eez grind to fit pad. They have a number of different sizes and they are solid rubber. So no worries about grinding too far. It's also cool that they are out of Woodland, WA. If all else fails and worse comes to worse, I will simply make my own recoil pad, which is something that I have been thinking about doing anyways.
To modify the stock, I removed the steel plate and marked a line with masking tape all the way around the stock where I wanted to sand to.
Then on the belt sander, I simply removed the wood to the tape line. That took about 10 minutes.
Then I cut the metal butt plate at the 90 degree bend with a 4.5" angle grinder and a cutoff wheel.
Next was to install the top part of the metal plate back onto the stock and sand it down to the wood. I took the opportunity to make the wood to metal fit on the top a little more flush while I was at it.
A quick polish of the steel piece and I was done. The entire metal working process took about 10 minutes as well. Now I have a nice flat location to install a rubber recoil pad. I'll let you know which model of pad I end up buying and how it all goes together.
To modify the stock, I removed the steel plate and marked a line with masking tape all the way around the stock where I wanted to sand to.
Then on the belt sander, I simply removed the wood to the tape line. That took about 10 minutes.
Then I cut the metal butt plate at the 90 degree bend with a 4.5" angle grinder and a cutoff wheel.
Next was to install the top part of the metal plate back onto the stock and sand it down to the wood. I took the opportunity to make the wood to metal fit on the top a little more flush while I was at it.
A quick polish of the steel piece and I was done. The entire metal working process took about 10 minutes as well. Now I have a nice flat location to install a rubber recoil pad. I'll let you know which model of pad I end up buying and how it all goes together.
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- NavyDoc76-80
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Re: (Another) Recoil Pad Thread - Kick-EEZ
Dave M
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- GasGuzzler
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Re: (Another) Recoil Pad Thread - Kick-EEZ
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Re: (Another) Recoil Pad Thread - Kick-EEZ
Interesting fix. Now fitting the flat top & narrow bottom...
Michael
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Re: (Another) Recoil Pad Thread - Kick-EEZ
I just ordered part number 301-6-L-B. It is 2" X 5 5/8" X 3/4". The screw holes are 3 1/8" apart which should work. New holes can be drilled if needed. It looks like it will fit, but I will have a fair amount of grinding to do. A smaller one may work as well, but I wanted to give myself as much adjustment room as possible. Also, I need to correct myself. These are solid Sorbothane® which is a polymer, not rubber.
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Re: (Another) Recoil Pad Thread - Kick-EEZ
Sorbothane insoles were a rubber like substance that absorbed impact well and that had a tendency to creep and bleed into your socks after time and with the pressure of a 200# male caveape over six months or so.
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Re: (Another) Recoil Pad Thread - Kick-EEZ
I think sorbothane was originally made for the computer industry to dampen vibration experienced between boards and other delicate parts in industrial applications. I bought a bunch of pads on eBay to use on my planter to dampen wear between some metal parts but it hasn't worked well. It is impossible to keep them in position. Though the parts are held in place with hardware, the jelly slick stuff works it way out so I gave up on it.Archer wrote:Sorbothane insoles were a rubber like substance that absorbed impact well and that had a tendency to creep and bleed into your socks after time and with the pressure of a 200# male caveape over six months or so.
It would also be interesting to see what it does over time in gun safes that use the Golden Rod system, the heated rods that promote circulation and dehumidify. I know the LimbSavers don't like it! It took them about two years but opened up the door one day and the pads on about two dozen rifles had leaked out on to the floor of the safe. What a mess. I replaced them all with Pachmayr Decelerators and haven't had a problem since.
Michael
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Re: (Another) Recoil Pad Thread - Kick-EEZ
Didn't know about them being used for vibration isolation in electronics.
They used to be prescription for shin splints and the like.
The insoles tended to creep and turn slightly hard or gooey over time.
I used them for years in my racquetball shoes until they got hard to find.
I'd still use the heel versions in my cowboy boots if I could get them easy and was able to replace them at about 3 to 6 month intervals.
They used to be prescription for shin splints and the like.
The insoles tended to creep and turn slightly hard or gooey over time.
I used them for years in my racquetball shoes until they got hard to find.
I'd still use the heel versions in my cowboy boots if I could get them easy and was able to replace them at about 3 to 6 month intervals.
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Re: (Another) Recoil Pad Thread - Kick-EEZ
This is kind of off topic, but Kick-EEZ sales the stuff in sheets as well. You could just buy a sheet and cut it to the shape you want for your boot.Archer wrote:Didn't know about them being used for vibration isolation in electronics.
They used to be prescription for shin splints and the like.
The insoles tended to creep and turn slightly hard or gooey over time.
I used them for years in my racquetball shoes until they got hard to find.
I'd still use the heel versions in my cowboy boots if I could get them easy and was able to replace them at about 3 to 6 month intervals.
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Re: (Another) Recoil Pad Thread - Kick-EEZ
Figured that I'd plug the screw holes while waiting for the pad to come in. One hole in the butt stock I understand. It was for the steel plate. Three holes however, I don't know.
So I drilled them out to 1/4", glued in some dowels and then sanded them flat. Now screw placement isn't an issue.
So I drilled them out to 1/4", glued in some dowels and then sanded them flat. Now screw placement isn't an issue.
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