Parts is Parts, AR-15 in the works

[Archer]

My next build is already coming together and I haven't even had a chance to shoot the PSA.

White Oak let me know they were ahead of schedule on the fluted barrel I mentioned above.
I ended up with a Timney trigger.
Still have a Rainer receiver.
Have a DPMS lower kit but won't need the trigger parts if I use the Timney so the DPMS can be spares.
Have a BCM medium charging handle. Have a spare bullet button. Blocked magazine.


As this is going to be a higher end build it may take me a bit to get some of the rest of the parts.
Looking at a BCM rail.
Maybe a Battlecomp.
Maybe Rainer forged upper.
Fail Zero BCG?
Some sort of Magpul stock and pistol grip (unless I go with an Ergo grip)
Probably Magpul metal BUS or YHM with an Aimpoint dot sight.

[akuser47]

I love the magpul pro sights but I don't like that the front sight post is proprietary thus not interchangeable to a tritium with white dot. I love XS sights n want to use them in these backups but no luck yet.

[Archer]

Got my White Oak barrel. It is a beautiful work of art. Hopefully it will shoot like it.

I'm looking to use a different receiver when I can get it.

Just saw a set of Knight's Armament BU sights that looked nice but had a price to match and then some.
One piece at a time...

[Archer]

Decided to go with a Griffin Armory Flash Comp instead of the BattleComp for the higher end build.

Have most of the rest of the parts on order with my bud who owns the shop.
He will be manufacturing some 'HDA' (High Desert Arms) label ARs that should be quite nice in the near future.

[akuser47]

Nice work, once I have my cz scorpion evo s1. I'll start working on what red dot and other goodies I can add to her.

[Archer]

Gun is assembled and it looks NICE!

AeroPrecision Upper.
Midwest Industries Keymod rail rather than the KMR. I think the MI is a little stouter and very minimal weight hit plus it has QD sling ports in 5 locations on the rail that the KMR does not have. In addition to the normal KeyMod slots at 3, 6 and 9 o'clock this rail has them above and below 3 and 6 as well.
Full pic on top with a 12.65 length. I could have gone maybe 2 inches longer but decided exposing the last couple inches of barrel was cosmetically nice. I still have a longer iron sight radius than a typical Midlength gas system with the A frame.

Dropped MagPul Pro BUS on it for now. Will probably go with a 1-4X or 1-6X optic long term.

Currently has a loaner bolt in the upper but the Fail Zero should be in before I can pick up the lower.

Decided to go with the fixed carbine buttstock from Magpul with the extended buttplate rather than the MOE rifle stock. The fixed carbine was a bit short but the rifle seemed to be just a tad long. The .75" thick rubber put me in the middle. MOE+ pistol grip. Both in OD.

Battle Arms Development ambi selector switch.
BCM QD end plate.
VLTOR buffer tube assembly.
Spare bolt, firing pin, cotter key in the grip core.

I'm really liking this build.
Almost my wish list rifle.

[Archer]

7.1 pounds including the back up sights and the spare bolt.
I'll have to see if I can get some pics out.

[GasGuzzler]

My first and only build is about 8 lbs., perfect easy trigger for $8 by me, total cost off the books without mags or scope of $500. Del-Ton parts plus my own weird fee float choice. It's heavy with the heavy profile 1:7 barrel. Haven't shot any of my own ammo. TulAmmo steel works well so mine should be great. Mid gas. I don't shoot well but hit 10" steel from 190 yds. 8 times in a row with the A2 front site and $16 eBay carry handle rear ap that was on it before the scope.

[Archer]

I've ended up with some spare fire control parts from this build.
I may check on cleaning them up a bit but in all honesty I think about a 4 to 4.5 lb trigger is pretty nice.
Apparently that's less than minimum spec for a military trigger now days.
On my match Garand it is mighty fine.

The 3.5 Timney on the White Oak may be cutting it a bit light. IF so I'll probably go with a two stage G. either SSA or DM.

This is my 3rd complete AR. My first is a Bushmaster from back in the 90s. My second is a LBR(?) receiver with a PSA 1:7 SS MOE kit on it. I have yet another finished lower waiting on me to get around to building or acquiring an upper for it. I had considered getting a Delton at one point but now that I've built the one I'm thinking about either building another OR getting another that's slightly more expensive than I really should be spending.

They are like a box of LEGGOs. It is just too easy to pick up a few more bricks and start building some more.

[GasGuzzler]

To clarify....my $8 trigger mod brought about a clean 4 pound 3 ounce trigger. It's the rifle that's swollen to 8 pounds.

My plan A was a 1/4-28X1/4 Allen head set screw to put up the butt where the pistol grip screw goes to run some of the travel off. This plan, according to the internet, requires safety removal for fitting then possible clearancing of the hammer once the set screw is in place so the safety still fits.

I didn't really wanna grind on my hammer but honestly I went to Plan B because I couldn't find a 1/4-28X1/4 set screw.

So there was the birth of Plan B.

Plan B was....why the hell do I want a glued in (once it is set) set screw that I can't find locally when a longer pistol grip screw fits the bill? If the extra length of the screw blocks the safety or is too long, a couple (at most) SS washers should effectively shorten it.

So I went to Home Depot and all I found was a 1/4-28X1.25 hex without threads all the way up and a five pack of 6mm washers (the SAE washer were WAYYY too large OD). Fine. $0.97 so I'll try it. Plan B1 was turn down the unthreaded shank in prep for threading, turn the hex head down to round (the hex would fit inside the pistol grip but there was no room for the wall thickness of a socket to drive it), then slot the head to drive with a run of the mill screw driver.

Then I got a hint from a friend to try Tractor Supply. There I found a two pack of 1/4-28X1/4" for less than a buck. BOUGHT! Plan A1 was ON!

Plan A1 worked! No thread locker needed. Turned the set screw in 24 turns with the hammer cocked to "fire" the trigger group. OK. Backed off one turn to 23 in and the hammer's not in the safety window. BINGO! Put the pistol grip on with the original 1/4-28X1 slotted screw and I'm at about 1.25-1.75 turns from the pistol grip cinching up. No problem....pulled the screw once more and installed one stainless washer I got before....back on Plan B-someting. PERFECT!

Pistol grip tightens up all the way, no thread locker, no hammer mods. Set screw has no where to go.....safety won't let it go up, grip screw won't let it go down. So it's time for the trigger gauge.

Oops....4 pounds, 3 ouces.

Nice.

Why?

Disconnector spring does little for the feel but OK, replace it. Trigger spring is a captured coil and is lighter gauge wire so I surmise it nearly has to be progressive. By shortening its effective range, its effective strength changed too. Pull is sort now....likely 1/4" or so....no hammer mods.