Rossi Rifleman

So, I've FINALLY taken my 92 apart for cleaning and slicking up. Gad, what a mess of rough machining and jagged edges! Kinda disappointing actually, but I'll fix it.

Question - I have the box o' springs from Harbor Freight, and it's obvious which one to use. But, does it need to be trimmed any? Or just install it full length? It's quite a bit longer than the original spring.

Start stock length then check ejection.

Yep, Gas has it right you need to test and try until your happy and sure of it. Then record your information or post it in this thread. So if you have to do it again you have a starting point to reference. Keep us posted

So far, it looks like it'll work fine full length, it doesn't appear to be over-compressing and crushing itself. Honestly, I don't really have any complaints about the stock spring. My brass all lands close by, it's not like it's throwing them 20 feet behind me. I may just put that one back in. I still have the rifle all apart, got a lot of deburring to do on this one.

If it ain't broke why fix it?

A number of the common complaints have not been noted in any of my three Rossi 92s.

Good point. My old one only had the inner-orbit ejection due to the '66 Chevy pickup rear coil spring in the ejector. I made (sort of) a replacement.

I'm thinking I can take the stock spring to the bench grinder and knock about .010 off of each end, that would weaken it just a tad.

I trimmed the HF spring a little for both of mine. Brass falls at my feet.

I do recommend that if you have trouble on the reinstall use the dental floss trick. It's a sticky thread. I had a lot of trouble getting everything back together on my 357 until I tried it. Now it's no problem at all.

zissman wrote:I trimmed the HF spring a little for both of mine. Brass falls at my feet.

I do recommend that if you have trouble on the reinstall use the dental floss trick. It's a sticky thread. I had a lot of trouble getting everything back together on my 357 until I tried it. Now it's no problem at all.

Aw, son-of-a.....

I've been fighting that damned ejector assembly for TWO DAYS! I knew I'd read of a "trick", but couldn't remember what it was or where it was located. Ended up just grinding off about .020 from each end of the stock spring, about .040 total, and got it all assembled with a dummy round. I'll have dental floss in my toolbox now.

Happy to report that all my fluffing, buffing and lubing appears to have VASTLY improved the mechanical operation! Mucho better now, no burrs or sharp edges to be found. All moving surfaces block sanded w/2000 grit wet/dry paper.

Also did a trigger job. Radiused and polished the contact tip of the trigger spring, polished the trigger where the spring pushes on it. Put two strips of aluminum pop can under the spring. Much smoother. Used my gunsmithing stones and the 2000 grit paper on the sear and hammer hook, VERY CAREFULLY, got those all even and smooth as a baby's butt.

Oh my, what a difference! I don't have a trigger pull gauge, but it's not what I'd call a "hair trigger", yet it's very light and crisp now. No creep whatsoever, definitely takes finger pressure to trip, but not very much. Seems perfect so far, range trip will tell for sure.

I have a new walnut stock set from PGW, but that's going to take a lot of fitting and I'm not into that right now (just had shoulder surgery, rotator cuff repair). So I took the stock wood, soaked it with Purple Power which ate the finish right off, scrubbed it clean with dish soap and water, and it's drying in the sun right now.

Wood looked pretty good when it was soaking wet, my plan is to just sand it lightly to de-whisker it, then apply a few coats of 50/50 BLO/turpentine for a basic oil finish. I've had real good results from that on other stocks, should look good on this one too. Might give it a coat of Fairtrimmers Military oX first for a bit of coloring, haven't decided yet. Suggestions welcome!

Sounds good. We took similar paths.