Pin gauges and dove tail cuts

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donhuff
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Pin gauges and dove tail cuts

Post by donhuff »

I recently got a set of "pin gauges" .250" to .500". This is the best set for guns as it fit the most calibers. If you do not know what they are for, you'll have to do a little researching to see some images and such. That will probably explain it better than words.

But the gauges are like pieces of rod that have been precision ground on their OD to exact tolerance from 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch in one thousands of an inch increments. There are a bunch of them in that box and I hope to God that I never drop the box and spill them out of their specific hole. That will be a half days job getting them all back in order!

So you can use them to check the size of a hole to within one thousands by sticking them in the hole, going up in size till the next one wont fit. Simple to use but very precise. And you can get them in plus and minus sizes but one thou spread is close enough for most things on a gun.

I got out in the shop last Sunday and played with them a bit and found out that you can measure all sorts of things with them. I ran them down the bore on my rossis and learned something..... I think when they cut the rear dovetail in the rossis, I think that the mash it in instead of cutting!

On my 45colt, a .445 will start in the muzzle end of the barrel and will go about 4 or 5 inches and stop cold. Hummm...... But a .444 will go in past this spot, but then stops right at the dovetail cut. Hummmm.....443 no so maybe a .442 no, how about a .441??? YES it finally made it past the dovetail and out the chamber end, but was a little stiff getting past the dovetail.

That's 4 thousands smaller than the muzzle end of the barrel! This is why when you slug a barrel, you sometimes get that one set of lands that measures a little smaller than the other two. That's actually the "grooves" that you are measuring, but if the lands are mashed down, the grooves are too, right under the dovetail. I have read about this but thought what the heck, They ough to know how NOT to do that and the one I'm reading about is probably just a fluke and does not happen to but a very few.

Well I got three of those "very few" cause my 454 and 357 all have it. They were only .002" smaller and not .004, but that shows you that is is more of a common thing, than not. And I'm not picking on just rossi, this is just the first gun that I have looked for it on. The odd one was my 44 mag it had one size from chamber to muzzle all the was, and the bore was snug on the gage all the way too. BUT WAIT A MINUTE!! The 44 was the first rossi that I bought and for some reason I remember fire lapping the barrel. I had just read a big write up on fire lapping and wanted to give it a try. I did it but don't know if I helped anything or not, cause it has always shot good. But then so does the 45 colt.

I then checked the throats on my 45c blackhawk. It measured out just like I had measured it before by slugging each throat in the cylinder, .455, .455, .4545, .454, .455, .455. So I size at .4535. Someday I may try to get them all a little closer to the same. But that was the good thing, the bad thing showed up when I slid a gage down the barrel. I forget the exact size now but it went in good and I could feel a little resistance all the way until I got right to the front edge of the forcing cone where the rifiling starts. Then it stuck, I thought that I could push it through, but it would not go even when I taped the cleaning rod that I was using as a push rod.

So now I know that I have the other bad thing that happens to a ruger. When they screw the barrel in, they torque it down really tight, and it collapses the end of the barrel that sticks in at the cylinder. The 45s are the worst about this cause the barrel is the thinnest because of the big bore.

So I made up some lapping bullets and headed for the range. I shot 40 course and 10 fine through both guns. When I got home I stuck the .441 gage in the rossi and turned the muzzle up, and the gage fell all the way through :D feeling lucky, I tried the .443, it hit the floor too. Hell, this is making me think that I actually know what I'm doing!!!......The .444 is stuck in the barrel right now. It was late and it will just have to wait till tomorrow.

But that was a big improvement, and Ill make up some more lapping bullets and give it another try soon. I want it to be like the 44 and get it to where the .445 gage will go all the way through, with a slight drag on it the entire length.

The blackhawk still did not free up all the way. I can tell that some of the restriction was removed cause the gage is a little deeper into the forcing cone. But it too is going to take some more lapping, or maybe recutting the forcing cone at 11 degrees so that it goes into the bore further and gets past the restriction. And to think, I bought that ruger around 1975, and have been real happy with it's accuracy this whole time. If it improves a little after I get the restriction out of it, it will be just wonderful.

like these http://www.ebay.com/itm/183pc-Vermont-G ... 1606622975
Don Huff

to bad those that know it all, cant do it all!
16" SS 92 357
20" BL 92 357
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Re: Pin gauges and dove tail cuts

Post by Ranch Dog »

I learned about "barrel crush" from Marlin, they excelled at it. Here is the barrel of my Marlin 1894S, a special order 45 Colt. The barrel is actually cut through at the rear dovetail.

Image

I thought it important to note for those that are not used to working with this stuff that the pins will only check the bore diameter. Groove diameter, the greater of the diameters, is really important as well and needs to be constantly checked when lapping. Once the "wear" starts taking place, the barrel needs to be slugged after every shot. I've ruined a barrel and seen many other barrels that have been ruined. It becomes very easy to over do it.

I would suggest that if you are interested in this work, that you purchase and read Beartooth Bullets Technical Guide ($15). Beartooth also offers a complete line of lapping supplies.
donhuff wrote:On my 45colt, a .445 will start in the muzzle end of the barrel and will go about 4 or 5 inches and stop cold. Hummm...... But a .444 will go in past this spot, but then stops right at the dovetail cut. Hummmm.....443 no so maybe a .442 no, how about a .441??? YES it finally made it past the dovetail and out the chamber end, but was a little stiff getting past the dovetail.
I would want to make sure that the groove diameter was following the bore diameter before I lapped. SAAMI spec for the 45 Colt bore is .442 (-.000/+.004).

I've found Enco a good source for measuring tools such as these gages and they have completed kits for $95 in the range that donhuff is talking about, an ideal range for firearm & casting use. The gages, any gage set, is not absolute in diameter and will always specify a plus or minus range of accuracy. The pin sets will either be on the high side or low side, usually .0002" in this price range. Here are the Enco examples. You just need to figure out what side you want the error on.

I started using pin gages to check the various cuts in a mold. In that an actual mold cavity cannot produce a bullet at the actual diameter of cavity cut, it is about .0002" off that diameter, I chose the -.0000"/+.0002 set.
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Re: Pin gauges and dove tail cuts

Post by donhuff »

Dang, they cut completely through the barrel? I bet that was interesting watching fire and smoke coming out that close to your face!

Did they do anything about it afterwards like, replace the barrel?


RD how did you ruin that barrel by lapping? Did you lap to much and it wore down the rifling edges to the point that accuracy was hurt?

Have you ever had to deal with barrel thread restriction on a revolver?

I know that I could leave these "problems" alone and not try to "fix" them, because the accuracy of both guns has been what I consider very good. But now that I know the tight spots are there, I'm curious to see, IF I can get rid of them, and if doing so will have any effect on accuracy.
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Re: Pin gauges and dove tail cuts

Post by Ranch Dog »

donhuff wrote:Dang, they cut completely through the barrel? I bet that was interesting watching fire and smoke coming out that close to your face!
It wasn't an open gap but enough of a crush that the barrel had been compromised.
donhuff wrote:Did they do anything about it afterwards like, replace the barrel?
It was a limited run of 500 rifles, a Guide Gun, chambered in 45 Colt. Marlin hand lapped it as much as possible because there were no replacement barrels. They also felt it wasn't an issue as long as the rifle was fired with spec ammo. I eventually found it a new home.
donhuff wrote:RD how did you ruin that barrel by lapping? Did you lap to much and it wore down the rifling edges to the point that accuracy was hurt?
By taking too much metal off. Not being careful and not measuring after each shot. There is quite an "art" to lapping with the bullet being pushed at less than airgun velocities. A repetitive cycle of cleaning, the shot, and reslugging the barrel.
donhuff wrote:Have you ever had to deal with barrel thread restriction on a revolver?
Nope.
donhuff wrote:I know that I could leave these "problems" alone and not try to "fix" them, because the accuracy of both guns has been what I consider very good. But now that I know the tight spots are there, I'm curious to see, IF I can get rid of them, and if doing so will have any effect on accuracy.
I think that goes against the general rule of lapping. You lap only if accuracy is unacceptable. This is where I got in trouble. I took a perfectly good rifle, accuracy wise, and turned it into something less that required an odd ball sized bullet.
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Re: Pin gauges and dove tail cuts

Post by akuser47 »

Wow scary
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Re: Pin gauges and dove tail cuts

Post by donhuff »

Well, I did the fire lapping and that got out a couple of thousands of the restriction. But since RD said what he did, I got a little scared to shoot many more.
So I made up a poured lead hand lap and tried it that way. It's a lot easier than the fire lapping to keep a close eye on the progress. But It is a lot more work, plus I was having to take off more material I guess, because I spent a couple of hours doing this. Lapping a while, clean the bore and check with a pin gauge. Then make a new lap and work at it some more.

I never did get it to where the .445 would go all the way through, but the .444 will drop freely through. So I'm within .001" of being the same from one end to the other cause the .445 is still a little snug at the muzzle, and then stop right at the dovetail cut.


But did it do any good??? I doubt it as like I said, it shot pretty good to begin with.

I shot some of my plinking load at 50 to check it out at first and to maybe smooth and lapping marks out that were left behind. It did good like always, so at least I didn't ruin it.I got 8 in one big hole and two out a little. But then I tried a hotter load of 20.0 grains of 2400 and my 260 SWC just like in the Unique load. They were scattering, maybe a little better than before, but I think that was really just my wishful thinking taking over. Probably exactly the same.

BUT then, I tried some of those same bullets which are a plain base design. But I had made a few brass plain base gas checks, I only made a few as I did not have but a little bit of brass shim stock left. And I put the 14 that I made on some of the SWCs and tried them with the same 2400 load. At 50 yards the difference in the group size was amazing! In the picture there are two 5 shot groups to the left withOUT checks, and then the one on the right with checks. And as you can see the checked group has one flyer way out, that has to have been my doing as the other 4 are in one big hole! The flyer is father away from the group, than the spread of the other four. I could not believe that the 4 all went into a hole that small. And while that load is not super fast, it's no slouch either and should be around 15-1600 I think.

So then with only a few bullets left with checks on them. I moved the target out to 100 to see if the grouping would hold up. While it was not as amazing as the 50yd group was, with three holes touching and one high and one low, it shows me that if I would be STILL when I'm pulling the trigger, I might get a really good group.

I ordered some copper shim stock from McMaster Carr this morning so before long I'll be able to try a few more out at 100 to see if I can better that group.I like copper checks better than the brass ones, theyseem to work a lot better.
I really would like to have a nice small round group even if they all do not touch. That would show that at least I'm doing my part.
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Don Huff

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Re: Pin gauges and dove tail cuts

Post by Ranch Dog »

Looks great, did you run a slug through the bore before and after the work to see how the groove changed?
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Re: Pin gauges and dove tail cuts

Post by donhuff »

I did one before, but have not done an after. I'll try to do one in the morning. Got trouble in the trailer park that I have to go check out right now.
Don Huff

to bad those that know it all, cant do it all!
16" SS 92 357
20" BL 92 357
20" SS 92 44
20" BL 92 44
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20" Bl 92 454
SS Rio Grande 30-30
Bl Rio Grande 45-70
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Re: Pin gauges and dove tail cuts

Post by donhuff »

Before it was .4515 .4515 and .452

Now it's .4525 .4527 .453

So looks like I did get it bigger by almost a .001 all the way around. I size at .4535 to try and fill up my blackhawks cylinder throats so I'm still ok. Had I gone any farther, I would have done like you did, and have to size even bigger.

I put a slug in the throat and drove it in about an inch. then put a rod in from the muzzle and pounded it a little to be sure and swell it to fit tight. Then knocked it back out of the chamber end. I then tried to insert it into the muzzle end and sure nuff, it only fit right, in one certain way as I lined up on the correct set of grooves and lands. It would start "out of time" but would only go in an 1/8" or so. But when I got it on the right set of grooves, I could push it in a lot farther, but it took a good bit of force to do so. So it's fitting good and snug, from one end to the other.
Don Huff

to bad those that know it all, cant do it all!
16" SS 92 357
20" BL 92 357
20" SS 92 44
20" BL 92 44
20" Bl 92 45C
20" Bl 92 454
SS Rio Grande 30-30
Bl Rio Grande 45-70
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