How to Remove R92 Lever detent and spring

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Re: How to Remove R92 Lever detent and spring

Post by Ranch Dog »

bugsbunny45 wrote:I am trying to install my gunslinger spring kit. It's the spring thst holds the part that keeps the clever closed.
Well you lost me there. Nothing keeps the lever closed other than your hand through it and on the grip.
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Re: How to Remove R92 Lever detent and spring

Post by Archer »

I didn't think the gunslinger kit included a friction stud spring?
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Re: How to Remove R92 Lever detent and spring

Post by Ranch Dog »

I couldn't find an actual picture of the kit, I bought six of them, and my memory has gotten so poor I could not remember. For each rifle, I have the original parts bagged up and sure enough the Lever Stud Spring is in each bag. So yes, it is included.

Here is a picture from Browell's.
R92_Gunslinger_Kit.jpg
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Re: How to Remove R92 Lever detent and spring

Post by Archer »

Yeah, I think I've still got a kit I haven't put in since the gun didn't really seem to need it at all.
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Re: How to Remove R92 Lever detent and spring

Post by ryjo »

bugsbunny45 wrote:Which direction do you drive the spring out? I have the spring from the gunslinger kit I want to install..
It's really stuff the detent.
I replied to your PM, but I'll post here to have the info. on the forum too. I would probably take RD's word that it doesn't matter which way you drive the pin out. I think what happened with me is I was compressing the lever friction stud too far - I was compressing it past the notch so that when I would try to drive out the pin, it would stick on the other side of the notch. IIRC yo have to compress it but not too much. I only did this once and it was several months ago so my memory of it is a bit hazy. Good luck though. And FWIW, I didn't end up cutting any coils off the spring. Just polished up the hole and the stud a bit - especially the end of the stud with the face on it that rides against the receiver - made it a little smoother - every little bit counts.
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Re: How to Remove R92 Lever detent and spring

Post by btoran »

ryjo - i used steve's gunz dvd to help me slick up my gun and it worked extremely well. one specific instruction he gives is to round off the lever friction stud a bit (so is is more rounded and less pointy) to help close the lever more easily, especially the last little bit. i rounded the stud without having to remove it or the spring. not sure exactly which of the tricks in the dvd made the difference. there are about 6 of them, so maybe it's all of them combined, but the lever can now be worked effortlessly with a single finger, including the first and last 1/4" that was difficult before. it may be that the stud needs to be more rounded than polished?
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Re: How to Remove R92 Lever detent and spring

Post by Archer »

btoran,
Mine was already radiused on all three of my guns which is what Steve was mentioning on the video.
It is my understanding that earlier guns had more or less a sharp point on that part that he was recommending you remove.

I may clean out the bore but I don't really plan on mucking with the shape of the stud since they are not giving me any issues.

I did check out a Marlin not too long ago where the stud was essentially almost jammed in place. It required major effort to work the lever and I think when I pointed that out the gun ended up going back.
Struck me as a little odd that the dealer wouldn't have noticed when pulling it out of the box, recording it in his book and putting it on the shelf.
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Re: How to Remove R92 Lever detent and spring

Post by dalek »

Just a FYI, the pin seems to have some "teeth" on one side. I take it is to help it stay in place better due to friction.
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So, next time I want to take it out I will be pushing it from the other side. Probably in the great scheme of things it does not matter but...
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Re: How to Remove R92 Lever detent and spring

Post by Ohio3Wheels »

I was taught to drive from the un-knurled side. Gets the knurling out of the hole sooner rather then forcing it all the way through.

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Re: How to Remove R92 Lever detent and spring

Post by dalek »

Ohio3Wheels wrote:I was taught to drive from the un-knurled side. Gets the knurling out of the hole sooner rather then forcing it all the way through.

That is the point I was trying to make but couldn't make it so succinctly (could not even remember the term "knurling" for the life of me). :oops: I was hoping the picture would do the talking. :D
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