Gun Oils

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Archer
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Gun Oils

Post by Archer »

Well I know a lot of folks who just love some variation of CLP.
A whole bunch of others use some variation of lithium grease.

I personally USED to use Gnslick for wear surfaces when I stared out.
I have used RemOil for the exterior of the gun when I just want to give it a very light oiling.
I used Tetra for years for semi auto slide rails to avoid the black marks Gunslick might leave on clothing.
And for an interior oil on moving parts I did not wish to grease I tended to use Kleen Bore's 3 in 1 although I also liked Tri-Flow's bicycle chain lubricant (wet).

M-Pro put out LPX that was supposed to be an improved version of CLP. I can't really tell you there is a lot of difference.

Most recently I've been shifting most of my gun lubrication to SLIP 2000.
My bud who owns one of the local shops has tested a number of lubricants especially on ARs. The SLIP 2000 seems to run the longest without tacking up from the dirt and carbon fouling. It does not seem to get as sluggish in cold weather but is still good with high desert temps. He supplied some to his BiL's Marine unit and the report back was that their weapons stoppages pretty much went away. He sent them a large care package of the stuff and they ended up sharing it with other units in the area including some allies who reported the same results.

I have a large bottle of their EWL sitting nearby. I've been pretty happy with it.
I used it on the 92s during the breaking in process and they noticeably smoothed out.
My bud with a 16" .357 after trying my guns immediately slathered his 92 down with EWL.
They also make a heavy weight EWL 30, a lighter gun oil and a grease as well as some cleaning solvents.

I've given a couple bottles and a couple of their 'extreme' combo Carbon Cutter, Degreaser, EWL packs away to local buds and the response has been pretty positive. http://www.slip2000.com/

Now for bicycle chain lubricant I usually end up with Finish Line Dry Lube and last year picked up a rather large bottle of it that I've used to recharge several smaller bottles. Riding Mountain Bikes mostly in dry conditions a wet lubricant is counter indicated and the Finish Line stuff seems to do about as well as any I've tried so far. I DO have to admit I like the GNAR Lube marketing campaign but haven't ponied up the bucks to try their product. http://www.gnarlube.com/videos/ For bicycle grease I'm not picky but I did pick up a container of Buzzy's quite a while back. It is pretty good stuff for general use but might be a little thicker for use on the cranks. Most of the bottom brackets and a lot of the wheel hubs are cartridge units now days so packing them with grease like we used to do isn't as common.
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Post by Strawdawg »

This guy's tests were basically for corrosion but still
interesting.

http://forums.outdoorsdirectory.com/sho ... evaluation

Froglube and Fireclean seem to be hot in the AR world
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Post by Tuco Ramirez »

For me its froglube or seal1. If you enjoy scrubbing carbon and carrying a dirt magnet around than petroleum based products are what your looking for.... :lol:
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Post by Kiwi-Hunter »

Hi Strawdawg
Interesting post, I have been trying Fluna Tec, and eezox which didn't do to good in the trials, before that I switched to Inox m3 which I still like as a quick lube and Inox brake clear is great on firearms as it doesn't need washed off and leaves no residue a great cleaner in my view.
The Fluna Tec is something quite different and I think for long term storage and protection of your top firearms, I be interested if anyone else has used this new technology.
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Post by Archer »

The article is interesting.
I'm not certain I agree totally with the methodology as different products have different primary purposes and assuming a uniform application methodology for everything probably isn't the best idea either, particularly when switching goals from friction reduction to rust prevention. I'm sure at least some of the products had their own instructions regarding application that were if not unique differed from some of the other products.

I don't think I agree with his moisture displacement assumptions either. MDL is generally designed to be applied to a clean dry surface to prevent moisture from getting to the suface later. WD40 for example goes on as a lightweight oil that penetrates seams, cracks and the like. over time it tends to dry out and become almost a varnish. The fact that a given product manages to pool at the bottom of a container of water doesn't so much indicate an ability to 'displace' water as it indicates a heavy product.

Currently I live in a pretty arid environment. Rust IS possible but is not something that has to be fought hard. Minor attention tends to do the job. When I lived in Atlanta (and similar conditions existed in Mobile, Memphis, North GA, Naples, Valdosta) one of my buds bought some reloading dies and stripped the shipping oil off them the day they arrived. The very next day those steel dies had a uniform RED coat of rust on them. The same bud at a different location purchased one of the first stainless 10/22 Rugers within 2 weeks the front sight on that gun was orange and upon being cleaned up was actually etched on one side. The same sorts of firearms in my current location can be inspected every year or two and be in good shape. Locally I've seen a Winchester 94 with extremely light freckling that sat in a closet for 14 years according to the owner. IF he'd been running the air conditioner and not a swamp cooler or leaving the windows open it might have looked fully new.

I tend to use very different products for rust prevention on the outside of a firearm vs. friction reduction of moving parts vs. bore solvent vs. bore protection or long term storage. Different environments can dictate changes in application or choice of product or frequency of application. I will often use different products on different internal working parts depending on the type of movement, mating fit or how long I expect it to be before I revisit the item in question for inspection and reapplication.
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Post by Kiwi-Hunter »

Hi archer
Good reply.
I live about 2km from the sea, so rust never sleeps.
The fluna Tec is about $40.00nz so I haven't used a lot, just on the storage firearms.
when I mobile again I must have a look at them.
KH
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Post by Archer »

Lubricants do different things.
Olive oil makes a decent salad dressing base but makes a rather horrible frying oil since it has a low smoke point. Much better to be frying in peanut oil, Crisco or even corn oil in a pinch.

Years and years ago my introduction to the 9mm cartridge took place when a buddy of mine brought his Browning High Power to the range. I showed up with my 1911 and my Ruger MKII Govt. My guns worked flawlessly using factory ammo. He bought a box of range reloads and his BHP would hardly function two rounds in a row.

I was pretty underwhelmed with the 9mm based on my introduction to it.
Granted range ammo isn't noted for having more than the minimum powder normally needed to function most semiauto handguns and it did have a tendency to go piff, especially compared to the .45 loads I was used to.

However it turned out my friend had used a product called RIG Universal Gun Grease on his BHP some time before. This product is by most accounts an excellent long term protectant. It is however about the consistency of light tar. This was probably the biggest single factor in my bud's BHP failure to function but was no doubt made worse by the anemic range reloads.

So, oil may be oil but there's a big difference between the hydraulic fork oil I use when rebuilding the suspension on my bicycle and olive oil and I don't really recommend mixing the two up even if they have the same caloric content.
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Re CRC heavy duty silicone

Post by donhuff »

I don't remember when I first used it, but it was many years ago. And the first thing I noticed about it was that if left a slick coating on anything I sprayed it on. Then I got the idea that this stuff might make a good coating for my guns, especially the ones that spend almost all their time in the cabinet.

I sprayed it on a couple of pistols, and waited to see the results. YEARS later when I finally got around to shooting them, they looked and felt like they did when I put them up. Nowadays, this is all I use for rust protection. I'll put a few drops of oil here and there for lubing moving parts, usually Rem Oil or CLP, whatever I find at Walmart. I too tend to think that most oils are basically the same, but I do use gun oils for guns, and cooking oils for cooking :lol: And I'm actually beginning to like Olive oil now that I have a heart stint and have to watch my cholesterol. I still use crisco for making biscuits, cause I don't have a 5 gallon bucket of hog lard under the kitchen cabinet like Mama used to make biscuits with. Man those were good, and so was the cracklin cornbread.

Now, since I powder coat all my cast bullets, I use lacquer thinner to clean out the bore. Then give it a good spraying with the silicone for rust protection. I also put a light spray on cast and coated bullets before sizing to make them so much easier to go through the die.
Don Huff

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Re: Gun Oils

Post by Ninety Caliber »

donhuff wrote:I don't remember when I first used it, but it was many years ago. And the first thing I noticed about it was that if left a slick coating on anything I sprayed it on. Then I got the idea that this stuff might make a good coating for my guns, especially the ones that spend almost all their time in the cabinet.

I sprayed it on a couple of pistols, and waited to see the results. YEARS later when I finally got around to shooting them, they looked and felt like they did when I put them up. Nowadays, this is all I use for rust protection. I'll put a few drops of oil here and there for lubing moving parts, usually Rem Oil or CLP, whatever I find at Walmart. I too tend to think that most oils are basically the same, but I do use gun oils for guns, and cooking oils for cooking :lol: And I'm actually beginning to like Olive oil now that I have a heart stint and have to watch my cholesterol. I still use crisco for making biscuits, cause I don't have a 5 gallon bucket of hog lard under the kitchen cabinet like Mama used to make biscuits with. Man those were good, and so was the cracklin cornbread.

Now, since I powder coat all my cast bullets, I use lacquer thinner to clean out the bore. Then give it a good spraying with the silicone for rust protection. I also put a light spray on cast and coated bullets before sizing to make them so much easier to go through the die.
I must have missed something what is the "IT" you are referring to?
N.C.
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Re: Gun Oils

Post by donhuff »

Look at the title of my post, I hid it up there :lol:

I do that same thing sometimes, and get all aggravated cause I don't understand what the poster is talking about. After about the third time reading the post, I read the title and go OH-OK.

I have recommended this stuff several other time in different post in different forums, and I don't think anyone has ever tried it. The thing is that it has to be the CRC brand, as I have not found another brand that works as well as it does. I do not think it is a difference in the silicone part, but there are big differences in the solvent/carrier of the silicone. I actually ask the wife to get me a can yesterday since she was going to home depot anyway, and my can was near empty. They do not carry the CRC brand, and she got some PB Blaster brand. It does not work! The carrier is like mineral spirits, and takes forever to dry, and it sprays out way too much at a time. The CRC brand, evaporates almost instantly and leaves a thin covering that you can see and feel. It makes sizing bullets almost effortless too.
The CRC brand can be found in almost any auto parts store around here in the southeast.


WARNING!!!!! do NOT spray this stuff in the house! The fine mist will go everywhere and coat the floor. And if you "TRY" to walk across said floor with socks on, you will be on that floor before you know what happened. I"M SERIOUS I sprayed some guns down but was on the front porch. I had the front and back doors open cause it was nice outside. The slight draft carried the spray all through the house. I though the wife was drunk when she came home and kicked her shoes off, and procedded to slide all over the place.

Wanna see a kid go down a sliding board really fast? Give his britches bottom a light spraying :shock: .
I'm not responsible for the accidents!
Don Huff

to bad those that know it all, cant do it all!
16" SS 92 357
20" BL 92 357
20" SS 92 44
20" BL 92 44
20" Bl 92 45C
20" Bl 92 454
SS Rio Grande 30-30
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