roll crimp on .45lc
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roll crimp on .45lc
I have a new RCBS press and carb. dies to load .45lc.
Resized new Starline cases and belled the mouth according to directions.
The seating and crimp die is where my problem is. I can't seem to get the die to go past the lip of the case. It puts what looks like a roll crimp right at the end of the case. No way to force the die handle down if you lower the die to go deeper into the case. Bullet seat is fine and within OAL specs.
Does this mean the belled case is too wide? Barely large enough to accept a 250 gr. Oregon trail RNFT bullet.
Any ideas? I have read that some seat bullet and resize on a different die? Usually a Reading.
Resized new Starline cases and belled the mouth according to directions.
The seating and crimp die is where my problem is. I can't seem to get the die to go past the lip of the case. It puts what looks like a roll crimp right at the end of the case. No way to force the die handle down if you lower the die to go deeper into the case. Bullet seat is fine and within OAL specs.
Does this mean the belled case is too wide? Barely large enough to accept a 250 gr. Oregon trail RNFT bullet.
Any ideas? I have read that some seat bullet and resize on a different die? Usually a Reading.
- GasGuzzler
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Re: roll crimp on .45lc
I seat and crimp revolver brass in two Lee dies but it's not a necessity. Sounds like you have too much flare. I don't size new Starline brass before loading.
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I've always been crazy but it's kept me from going insane.
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Re: roll crimp on .45lc
GG,
I have read about those that do and those that do not size new Starline brass. I thought I'd try it both ways. I did check all the case length in a gauge so I don't think the length is the issue with crimping.
I put a caliber on the bell and it was within specs. The crimp groove on the Oregon bullets is just at the case mouth. I'll try some unbelled cases and see if the seating crimping die goes further down the case.
I have read about those that do and those that do not size new Starline brass. I thought I'd try it both ways. I did check all the case length in a gauge so I don't think the length is the issue with crimping.
I put a caliber on the bell and it was within specs. The crimp groove on the Oregon bullets is just at the case mouth. I'll try some unbelled cases and see if the seating crimping die goes further down the case.
- HarryAlonzo
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Re: roll crimp on .45lc
You might try bullet seating and roll crimping as separate steps, just to see if you can get the crimp to behave.
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Re: roll crimp on .45lc
As has been suggested I'd try seating and crimping in 2 steps. I cant speak to the roll crimp on the 45 Colt as mine are all tapper crimped as are most of the rest of the straight wall cases I load. I did find that with my RCBS 357 dies it wanted to crimp so fast that it was binding the bullet before it got all the way seated. This was the start of doing this in two steps. Since then (1969/70) it's just become the process.
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Re: roll crimp on .45lc
The way I do this (seat and crimp two step) is to get my OAL set first with the die backed off enough to not crimp. Leave that case in and the ram up, back of the seating stem and start screwing the die body in to get the degree of crimp you want. Lock the ring at this position. Get a large fender washer at you local source of hardware, put it between the top of the press and the die this will put the crimp ring high enough to not touch the case. Now adjust you seating stem to touch the bullet in you test case and seat you bullets. Remove the washer, remember to back the seating stem out, screw the die in and crimp.
Takes longer to write it than to do it.
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Takes longer to write it than to do it.
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Re: roll crimp on .45lc
Granted, all I'm doing on the 650 right now are 9mm and 45ACP and they both get taper crimped. Everything else is on the trusty old rock chucker, still going strong after 49 years.Archer wrote:Ohio,
Works great as long as you are single staging...
Make smoke,
Curt... makin' smoke and raising my carbon foot print one cartridge at a time